JD's Journal : People : Surf Bar Stories

: : Keith is in his forties, a good-looking guy from California and long-timer surfer. We're sitting around the bar at a surf camp in Mexico, and he's telling stories about surfing in the 70's. "Came down to South America in a VW bus", he says. "Picked up the lead guitarist for Wishbone Ash and his girlfriend, and drove on up into the Andes. Ended up at Lake Titicaca. I sat by the side of the lake for a day and meditated. Got sunburn on the top of my eyelids. We dropped acid and played Frisbee at Matchu Pitchu, right there in the ruins - spent the afternoon with these Norwegian chicks in the hot-springs down the mountain".

He's the same age as me. I spent that time working in a computer company in England, sitting in pubs in the evening, and then listening to reggae while smoking horrible brown hash in a large water-pipe and watching black and white horror movies on TV. Keith may have made the better choice.

: : Bob is sitting in the restaurant of a place in Fiji. He's kind of fifty-ish and doesn't look like a surfer - he's got kind of thick glasses and, um, how can I put it, isn't really V-shaped to look at. So I'm interested what he's doing here amongst all the twenty-something dudes, and sit down to chat, figuring he's buying real-estate to retire on or something. As we talk, these are the things I learn from Bob:

a. He's traveling the world indefinitely, having sold a business on Maui. Right now he's into his third year on the road.
b. He has a love affair with Russia - spends half a year there sometimes
c. He does surf, on a 7'8" he shaped himself.
d. He shaped the board in Nias, having discovered a few blanks in the back of a shop there.
e. He spent "several months" in Indonesia this year.
f. He also shaped a 6'10" for "Natalia"

By this time, my opinion of Bob is pretty different than when we started talking, and I'm wondering who Natalia is. Just then, a gorgeous woman with dark, black hair gets up from a booth where she's been writing and wanders by, and touches Bob on the shoulder. She's got to be about 25 years younger than him and I don't think she's his daughter..

: : Felicia is an archaeologist specializing in the Pacific islands, and has been working in the region for eighteen years. She spends two or three months every year in the jungle, digging stuff up, listening to the local oral histories and trying to figure out the history of the islands. Nothing is written down, so she has to piece together half-remembered stories from the old people, tiny bone fragments, piles of rocks, other clues…

She makes a fine entrance to the tiny hotel bar - wearing an Indiana Jones hat, sloppy grey tee shirt, baggy army pants and black army boots. Oh, and a long pigtail. After getting to know her a little bit, it seems clear that the Indiana Jones/Tomb Raider look is very slightly an affectation - only slightly - it's mostly practical, she would hasten to add, but the fact that it's a little deliberate makes it more fun to watch. She's intense, and can talk with great enthusiasm about rock walls, shell fishooks and population migration for several hours, whilst remaining interesting - no mean feat.

She has great stories about living with indigenous people for long periods of time. Here's one:

Her friend was going to live with the Bontok (I may not have this spelling right) people in Northern Philippines. Her friend has sandy hair, a fair complexion, and freckles. It took a while for the Bontok to figure out her coloring - she might have been made of air, or not have any blood, for example, and they needed to sort that out. Then they started asking about her freckles, and there is no word in their language for "freckle", so they asked "are those your tattoos?" "Sure", she said, "those are my tattoos". Now it turns out that the Bontok are headhunters. They were supposed to stop in the 1970's, but, well, they haven't gotten around to it yet. When a Bontok man takes a head (this is the kind of phrase Felicia tosses around in casual conversation), the women in his family are allowed to wear a tattoo. Felicia's friend has a lot of freckles... "Wow", said the Bontok with some respect. "Niiiiiiice tattoos"....'

(My email is: jdj@pacificwaverider.com)